Seam



March 1, 1927. 1,619,495

C; C. BLAKE sEAM Filed Nov. l1920 ltr/145 /N VEA/TUMv @WMM Patented Mar. l, i927.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CHARLES C. BLAKE,'OF BROOKLINE,MASSACRE'SEITS,` ASSIGNOR TO C. C. BLAKE, IN- CORPORATED, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF NEW YORK.

SEAM.

Application filed November The present invention relates to the art of making seams such, for instance, as the outseam of a shoe.

Usually an outseam for a shoe comprises a lock stitch which to make requires the use of two threads which are fed to the work from a source of supply located above and below the work, respectively. One of the sources of thread supply is placed in a shuttle and to perfect theV lock in the two threads it is necessary to draw from the other thread supply a long length of thread so that when itis drawn through the parts to be stitched it may be passed in a loop completely about the shuttle. Consequently, the thread comprising the loop must be drawn repeatedly through the workfand this reaving of ther thread weakens yit.-

The object of the present invention is to provide a novel method of making a seam having utility in the manufacture of shoes, harness, etc. whereby the use of a shuttle or two sources of thread supply is obviated.

To the accomplishment of this object, and such othersV as may hereinafter appear, the features of the invention relate to certain devices, combinations, arrangements of parts, and methods of manufacture hereinafter described, and then set forth broadly and in detail in the appended claims, Vwhich possess advantages readily apparent tov those skilled in the art.

The-various features of the present invention will be best understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings illustrating the best form of the invention at present devised in which,

Figure 1 is a detail in sectional yelevation showing the application of the invention to,

the manufacture of shoes. As shown, the upper, welt and insole are secured together by a thread passing through the welt and anchored about a post formed in the body portion of the insole. The outsole is secured. to the welt by a line of thread passing through the welt and anchored about a post formed in the body portion of the outsole;

Fig. 2 is a detail, partly in sectional elevation, showing the gouge which forms the post in the work and a doubled thread passed through the parts to be stitched;

Fig. 3 is a view similar to Fig. 2 but showing how the gouge operates to pass the thread about the post;

Fig. 4 is aview similar to Figs. 2 and 3 s, 1920. serial No.422,'278. n

showing the position of the thread after it has been passed about the post and about to be taken up;

Fig. 5 is a detail in plan showing the seam; f l

Fig. 6 `is a detail in sectional elevation of the seam shown in Fig. 5; and v ,Fig 7 isv a perspective of the combined gouge and looper for forming the stitch anchoring post and looping the thread about the post l Referring to Fig. 1, the upper 1, welt 2 and insole. 3 are secured together bya line of thread 4L which .is fastened to the Vbase of a slit 5 formed in the welt 2 and anchored about a post 6 formed in the insole. The outsole7 is secured to the welt 2 by a line of thread 8 passing through the welt and anchored about a post 9 formed in the outsole.

In order to form the stitch anchoring posts in the work, I have devised the combined gouge and lcoper 10 illustrated inVV Fig. 7. This device is hollow for a portion of its length and terminates in a cutting edge 11 so that when the gouge is driven intoy the work it forms the stitch anchoring post. This post, as shown most clearly in Figs.I l and 6, extends from the interior of the gouged part to the surface thereof and is connected tothe gougedpart at its base only.

The combined gouge and looper 10 is valso provided with a longitudinal channel 12 :bordered by a pair of wings 13 and 141.

The wing 13 is longer than theI wing 14 by an amount substantially equal to the thickness of the thread. The wing 14 is also provided with a. rounded corner 15.

In order tol stitch two parts such as 16 and 17 (Figs. 2, 3 and L1) together, the gouge'lO is driven into the work to a depth limited by the shoulderlS (Fig. 7)', to form the stitch :Imcl'ioring post 19. Simultaneously with the formation ot the stitch anchoring post, or in any suitable or desirable sequence, a doubled thread 2() drawn through the parts 16 and 17 and located between the wings 13 and 14 (Fig. 2). The thread 20 may be. drawn through the parts to be stitched by an ordinary hooked needle and this operation may be preceded by an awling operation to form. theholes for the passage of the thread( After the thread has been passed through the work as shown infFig. 2 the combined gouge and looper 1() is rotated in a. counter clockwise direction. During the rotation of the gouge the wing 13 expands the space around the post and the rounded corner 15 on the wing 14rsteps on the thread and lays it down in the bottom of the gouge hole.

During the rotation of the gouge no tension is placed upon the line of thread com# ing from the source of thread supply but as Soon asa single rotation of the gouge has been completed the thread is taken up first to draw it tightly against the exterior of the gouge, and then, upon the removal of the gouge, to draw it tightly in place about the post adjacent thebase thereof'.

It will be apparent to those skilled in the art and from an inspection ofV Figs. 5 and (i that the combined gouge and looper l0 is transferred in a step by step manner along or around the work and that the steps ofthe method hereinbefore described are repeated in succession until the seam is con'iplcted.

that is claimed as'new is:

1. Incombination, twomembers, one of which is provided with integralposts connected to the member within the body portion thereof only at a substantial distance from the surfaces of the member, and both of which are provided with a thread passed through both of the members and looped about the posts.

2. In combination, two members one of which is provided with stitch anchoring Vposts connected at their bases only within the body portion of the member at a "substantial-distance'from the surfaces thereof, and both ofwhich are provided with a thread secured to one of the members and looped about the posts on the otherl member.

3.111 combination, two 'members one of which is provided with integral posts formed in the member and completely separated' from the adjacent face of the member, and both of which are provided with a thread passed through both of theI members and looped about the posts.A

4;. In combination, two members one of which is provided with integral posts formed in the member and rising clear of the member from the interior thereof, and both of which areA provided with holes whereby a thread passed through, the holes may be looped about the posts.

5. A Welt shoe havinggin combination, an

^ upper, a welt and an insole provided with cylindrical posts integral therewith sep arated from the adjacent surface. of the insole, secured together by a line of threadpassing through'the welt and upper and? anchored about the posts formed in the insole.

6. A Welt shoe, having, in combination, an upper, a welt and an insole provided with stitch-anchoring devices integral therewith completely separated fromthe adjacent face of the insole secured together by a line of 'posts secured at theirbases only tothe 1nein-.

ber and separated from the adjacent surface thereof, and both of which. are provided with a thread passing into the members and looped about the posts.

9: A shoe, hav-ing in combination, an unchannelled outsole provided with` stitch-anchoringdevices formed in the material of the outsole and separated from the adjacentsurface thereof,` and a part to which `the outsole is secured by a line of threads passing through .the part and looped about stitch anchoring devices formed in the outsole.

10. A welt shoe, having in combinatioman upper, arwelt and an insolesecured together by a line of thread passing thnough the welt and anchored, entirelyfbeloiw the surface of the insole, toy a stitch anchoring device formed integral with the insole.,

11. A welt shoe, having in combination, an upper, a welt slit alongflone Ylmgiitudinal; edge to provide aninterior shoulder, an insole provided with a ost, and means for securing the upper, We tand. insolef together comprising a thread engaging the interior shoulder ot the welt and looped about the post in the same plane as the `slit in` the welt. v

12. That improvement in the art lof male ing seams which consists in `forming a cylindrical post in one of the parts to be stitched entirely separated from the adjacent surface thereof, passinga doubled thread.

through beth of the parts to be stitched,.`

and looping the thread about the post.

13. That improvement` 1n the art of making seamswhich consi-.sts in gouging one of the parts to be `stitched to form a post connected at its base only to the interior of the gonged part, passing a doubled thread through bothV of the parts to be stitched, and

looping the thread. about the post.

14. Tha-t improvement in the art of making seams which consists in gouging one. of i the partsto be sewn to form post connected at its base only to the interiorof the gouged part, passing a loopof thread into both of the parts'to be` sewn, and laying a thread dovvn` in the bottom of the. gouge hole around the post. y

15. Thatv improvement in the art of making seams which consists in forming a cylindrical stitch anchoring device in one ofthe parts to be Stitched, passing a doubled thread through both of the lparts to be stitched, expanding the space surrounding the stitch anchoring device and laying the thread about the stitch anchoring device.

16. That improvement in the art of making seams which consists in 'forming a cylindrical stitch anchoring device in one of the parts to be stitched, passing a doubled thread through both of the parts to be stitched, expanding the space surrounding the stitch anchoring device, laying the thread about the stitch anchoring device adjacent the base thereof and taking up the stitch.

17. That improvement in the art of mak- 15 ing seams which consists in gouging one of the parts to be sewn `to form a post connected at its base only to the interior of thev gouged part, passing a loop of thread through both of the parts to be sewn, and

running the loop of thread around the post.l

18. That improvement in the art of making seams which consists in gouging one of the parts to be sewn to form a post connected at its base only to the interior of the gouged part, passing a loop of thread into 

